What dirt work and site preparation actually covers
When somebody calls and says they need site work, the job almost always includes the same pieces in different proportions. We clear the building footprint and a working margin around it. We strip the topsoil because nobody wants to set a foundation on six inches of dark organic dirt that will rot down and compact later. We cut the high spots down and fill the low spots in. We bring the pad up to the finish floor height the builder needs, usually a foot or more above existing grade in this part of Louisiana because of how water sits. We shape the surrounding ground so runoff moves away from the slab, not into it. Then we compact in lifts, finish the surface, and stake the corners for the next crew.
On a typical residential pad we are moving anywhere from a few hundred to a few thousand yards of dirt. On a commercial site or a large rural homesite the numbers get bigger. Either way the approach is the same: do not skip steps, do not guess, do not leave anything loose under the slab.
Why Acadiana ground makes site prep different
South Louisiana dirt is mostly clay. Heavy, sticky, gumbo clay that swells when it gets wet and shrinks when it dries. Build a pad without understanding that and you get cracked slabs, separated brick lines, doors that stick six months later. We deal with this by bringing in select fill, sand-clay blends, or limestone where the engineer calls for it, and by compacting in eight-inch lifts instead of dumping a pile and rolling the top.
The water table sits high in most of this area. In Carencro, Scott, Lafayette, and out toward Broussard, you can hit water four to six feet down in a wet season. That means a pad needs to sit above the surrounding ground and water has to have somewhere to go. We grade the lot so water runs off in a defined direction, usually toward a swale, a culvert, or a drainage ditch on the property line. If there is no good outfall, we talk about ponds, French drains, or tying into a parish ditch before the slab gets poured. It is a lot easier to fix drainage before there is a building in the way.
The actual process, step by step
- Site walk. Scotty comes out, looks at the lot, finds the high and low spots, checks how water moves across the property, and listens to what you want the finished site to look like.
- Layout and finish floor height. We mark the pad corners, set a benchmark, and figure out where the finish floor sits. If the builder or engineer gives us a number, we work to that. If not, we look at the surrounding ground and the road and set it where it should be.
- Clear and strip. Trees, brush, and stumps come out. The top layer of organic topsoil gets stripped off the pad footprint and a working perimeter. We stockpile it if you want it back for landscaping later.
- Cut and fill. Excavators and dozers move the high ground into the low ground. If the lot is short on dirt, we bring it in by dump truck.
- Compact in lifts. Fill goes in roughly eight-inch layers. Each layer gets compacted with a sheepsfoot, smooth drum, or vibratory roller depending on the material. We do not stack three feet of dirt and try to compact the top.
- Rough grade. Get the pad close to finish height and shape the slope on the sides.
- Laser leveler finish. Final grade goes to within an inch or better. The slab crew shows up to a flat, compacted, ready surface.
- Erosion control. Silt fence, hay bales, or a clean cut into the ditch line so a heavy rain does not wash your investment into the street.
What a finished pad looks like
A pad ready for the slab crew is flat, firm, drained, and the right size. You should be able to walk it without your boots sinking. Water should run off it in the direction you planned, not pool in the middle. The corners should be staked clearly. The pad should be a foot wider on every side than the slab itself so the form boards have somewhere to sit. And the surrounding ground should not be torn up worse than it has to be. Clean work is part of the job.
What is and is not included
A standard site prep quote from us covers the walk, the layout, the cut and fill, hauling fill in or off, compaction, rough grade, fine grade, and a final laser pass. It includes basic erosion control and cleanup. It does not include the slab itself, plumbing rough-in, septic work, or utility trenching unless we agree to that up front. Tree removal on a heavily wooded lot is usually billed separately because it can vary so much. We tell you straight what is in the number and what is not before we start.
Timelines you can plan around
A small residential pad, say a 40 by 60 slab on a flat lot, can be done in two to three days. A larger custom homesite that needs significant fill, drainage work, and tree removal runs four to seven days. A commercial pad with parking, a working surface, and tie-ins to existing drainage can be a one to three week job. Weather is the biggest variable in South Louisiana. We watch the radar and plan around the rain, because compacting wet clay just makes a mess.
Why this matters for your build
A foundation is only as good as what is under it. Builders in this area know which sites had real prep done and which ones got a load of dirt dumped and pushed around. The first group of houses sits where you left them. The second group needs a lot of trim work in year two when the slab settles unevenly. Doing this part right is cheaper than fixing the result of doing it wrong. That is the whole reason we focus on it.
We work for homeowners building on family land, builders putting up spec homes and customs, farmers setting barns and equipment sheds, and small commercial owners putting up shops and warehouses. Same approach for all of them: figure out the ground, plan the pad, do it once.
Common questions about site prep & grading
How much fill dirt does an average house pad need?
For a typical 2,000 to 2,500 square foot home in this area, you can plan on roughly 80 to 200 yards of fill depending on how low the lot sits and how high the finished floor needs to be. Lots that flood need more. We give you the actual number after we look at the lot.
Do you provide the dirt or do I have to source it?
We provide it. We have dump trucks and we know which pits and stockpiles have the cleanest fill, the right select fill, and the limestone you might need. Sourcing it is part of the job.
How long after site prep can the slab be poured?
Right away if the pad has been compacted properly and the weather cooperates. We coordinate with your slab crew so they roll in the next day if you want. There is no curing time for the dirt itself once it is compacted.
Do you handle drainage during site prep or is that separate?
Basic lot grading and runoff direction is part of site prep. If the property needs French drains, swales, or a culvert installation, that is additional but we do it all in-house so it is one phone call and one crew.
Can you work on a wooded lot that has never been cleared?
Yes. Land clearing is a service we offer, and we usually bundle it with the site prep so you are not coordinating two contractors. We take the trees down, stump out the footprint, haul off the debris, and then go right into prepping the pad.
Do you work with my builder or my engineer?
Either or both. If your engineer specifies select fill, lift thickness, or compaction percentage, we follow it. If you are doing a simpler build without an engineer on it, we use what experience says works for this ground.
Scotty comes out, walks the property, and gives you a straight quote. Call (337) 288-3795 or send a message.